Reviewed by STEVEN G. KELLMAN In his 2004 essay “Consider the Lobster,” novelist David Foster Wallace asks readers to ponder whether lobster, a culinary delicacy routinely boiled alive, merits moral consideration. Do crustaceans feel pain, or are they merely insensate objects that a voracious gourmet need not fret about? If we start to consider the lobster, what about pigs, dolphins, …